Everybody knows the name Marco Pierre White, or MPW as he's usually referred to in the hospitality industry.  There's the old and now well versed headlines; being the first British chef to be awarded 3 Michelin stars, famous for his rock and roll life and cooking style, infamously being in the room when Gordon Ramsay happened to cry, impulsively throwing customers out when they were seemingly acting badly, along with the publication of his book, White Heat, which illustrates most of the latter points.  A lot has changed since those days, during Marco's time at Harvey's on Wandsworth Common, a stint which many staunch food fanatics still to this day see as representing Marco at his best and most pure.  This was well before my time in the game, even before he landed those 3 famous stars at another restaurant, The Hyde Park Hotel.  If I could eat at any restaurant which no longer exists, it would be Harvey's in 1989/1990, even if it would be proper old fashioned nowadays.  But had that kitchen and its team not existed, the current landscape of British top end restaurants would look a lot different in 2018.

Almost 30 years on and times have changed even though his legendary status hasn't, and Marco now represents a very different world.  These days he's all about classic, accessible food, done simply, in good looking places.  He has pubs, steakhouses, stock cubes, New York Italian places, pizzerias, juice bars, and even once ran a chain with jockey Frankie Dettori.  Marco is all about giving the people what they want, rather than championing a Michelin style experience.

Now Wheelers of St James; a brand which was once synonymous with quality seafood, have linked up with Marco to operate a small number of dining rooms, one of which is on Liverpool's stunning King's Dock, housed within the luxury 4 star Pullman Hotel in one of the city's fanciest spots.  Opened in mid-2017; they have a new menu which we visited to check out.

On approach, you couldn’t miss the venue; a great looking building fronted by an iconic photo from the aforementioned White Heat book.  The one with Marco wielding a meat cleaver.  Exactly the impression that you want in your mind ahead of critiquing a dining experience guided by a famously fiery Chef, who openly lacks having a massive amount of regard for critics.  In his own words, even the very best critics will never know anywhere near as much as the Chefs who feed them.  I can't disagree to be honest. I likely wouldn’t even if I actually did, especially not when a meat cleaver is involved.

Whilst settling in we had some Warm Baked Sourdough (£3.95), which was more like a mini baguette, sliced into wedges, which gratefully came with some lovely seasoned butter.  Simple, and did what it said on the tin, albeit a bit under what you'd expect for four quid in truth.

Between courses we sat taking in the stunning views over the Mersey, and during another glance at the menu noticed that a 10% 'discretionary' service charge is pre-added.  Apart from in London where it's the cultural norm, it's something that you just deal withand internally sulk like a miser.  I always tip good service because I know what it's like to be a server.  Asking for the 10% to be removed though, even if warranted, will only ever result in all concerned feeling awkward, which isn’t what eating out is about unless you're a sadist. 

On this occasion though, the 10% was well earned.  Our charming server was helpful, bubbly and a total pleasure.  She gave great advice on the wine list as we were picking something which broadly paired with all our dishes, since it was a being-professional single bottle evening.  On this occasion, the Waipara Hills NZ Sauvignon Blanc (£23.99) did the trick perfectly, with the classic fresh Marlborough notes of gooseberry and grapefruit.

Already full by this stage in truth, we soldiered on and ordered puds, taking in the ambiance.    It was another line-up of total classics on the sweet section of the menu, and we struggled to pick just two.  Trifle, crumble, tiramisu; this was probably the one course which led to the most indecision. 

We eventually opted for Wheeler’s Bitter Chocolate Mousse (£6) which was superb too, being rich, dense, gooey, and very indulgent indeed, as anything chocolate should be.  I've never complained about portions being too big, which is why my cholesterol is too high, but this could have perhaps been smaller, and would have defeated anybody less gluttonous.  I finished it though, happily, which is beside the point.  The Box Tree Eton Mess (£6) was a nod to the iconic Ilkley based Box Tree restaurant which Marco worked at when he was a teenager, still loves to this day, and now owns part of.  Good quality meringue, whipped cream, fresh strawberries, layered on top of a hidden surprise via some vanilla ice cream.  A Knickerbocker Glory married to Eton Mess, and a great, light way to end our meal on.